PUERINI'S,

Puerini's fine cuisine is as dependable as olives in antipasto. Their reputation centers around their prize-winning pasta, though there are many chicken, meat and seafood selections. A specialty of the place these days is veal. There are 11 preparations, from the usual alla marsala and its San Fillipe variation with hot banana peppers,-to a festive alla cacciatora with cognac and tarragon. All varieties are $19.95 and come with a half order of Puerini's fresh fettuccine. For three bucks less, you can substitute chicken. There are also a half-dozen piatti di verdure, from veggie lasagne ($14.95) to linguine with pesto ($12.95). Desserts are a must-have here. Poached pear to gelato, tiramisu to chocolate tartufo, all kitchen-made. We had to have two. Orange-almond chocolate mousse ($7.50), thick as fudge, served in a martini glass, intoxicating. And flammo di banano ($8.95), sautéed bananas and chopped walnuts in a brandy-rum sauce, with vanilla gelato: sinful.

Full review.